This lets us run non-fish targets (such as `fish_tests`) under a clean
test environment without running into the fish-specific payload
configuration now carried out by `test_driver.sh` which expects a
`.fish` payload that it will run under a deterministically configured
instance of fish, running in an environment initialized by
`test_env.sh`.
This should fix the problem with in-tree builds leaving detritus behind
after a `make test` when `fish_tests` would be executed without
`test_driver.sh` - it is now executed under `test_env.sh` instead.
